The Tongariro Crossing

Said to be the most popular one day hike in the country, the Tongariro Crossing is one of those things everyone who had been to New Zealand told me I HAD to do. Most of these people were here in summer – when you have 12-14 hours of daylight at your disposal, solid ground beneath your feet and balmy temperatures maybe looking for a jumper at the summit (1900m).

She is an altogether different beast in winter. The Tongariro National Park is home to 3 active volcanoes – Mount Ruapehu (the most recently active in 1995) whose slopes provide the North Island with its biggest ski fields, Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings movies) and Mount Tongariro. Even this early in winter, all 3 are covered in snow above about 1200m.

With only about 8 hours of decent daylight available, this hike is not for those looking for a leisurely stroll. We were collected at 6.15am for the drive to the starting point of the walk. On the way, we were clad in hiking boots, micro fleeces, overjackets, fleece trousers, hats, gloves, sunglasses (just as essential believe it or not) and even a set of crampons each! By the time we were ready to start walking, it was almost 8.30.

With a handful of very brief stops along the way, we powered up the mountain, scrambling over rocks at some points, mistaking frozen streams for the path at others (oops!). Before long we were climbing the Devil’s steps, which is about a 40 minute stair climb – no breaks we were warned! Reaching the top though, we were well rewarded, with a stunning view of Mount Taranaki on the western seaboard and the vast plains between Tongariro and there!

Donning the crampons, we continued the climb to the red crater of Mt. Tongariro, reaching the top for what can only be described as awesome views.

We ate our homemade cheese and salami sandwiches sitting on snowless soil, thanks to the steaming belly of Tongariro looking at that view!

We were incredibly lucky to get a view like this. The weather was clear and crisp if a little chilly! The previous day, the group had turned back at this point due to a blanket of thick cloud, occluding all views and at minus 15 degrees, freezing all present! We had mild enough weather to sit at the summit for a quarter of an hour to rest, refuel and soak up the incredible vista!

As if that wasn’t enough, our guides then decided that what would be much more fun than walking down the hundred or so metres to the basin you see in the pictures above, would be sliding down the mountainside – sans toboggan!!! So, stashing our jackets, cameras and crampons carefully into bags, we hurled ourselves at frightening speeds down a snowy mountainside. Blinded by the snow sprayed into our faces by wildly flailing legs, we all eventually made it down safe and sound if a little snowy! Definitely I the most fun I had had so far that day!

It was more or less all downhill from there, slowly leaving behind the snowy peaks and the icy paths, progressing onto slushy mud paths and eventually arriving into lush, dense forest. I probably should have taken the time to appreciate this latter part of the trek, but I must admit that approaching kilometre number 19, my thoughts were firmly on a seat on the bus, a hot shower and a snooze!

I had wondered about doing the Tongariro Crossing. Firstly, whether it would be possible in winter. It seems on that front, we were blessed! In fact, the next day, as we drove around Ruapehu to the town of Ohakune, we saw a thick band of cloud resting comfortably on the very paths we walked the previous day! Secondly though, I wondered would it really be that great. Over the course of the trip, I’ve discovered that some of the “must do” trips/activities can be a bit of a let down, all the hype, all the marketing and really it can’t match the expectation. The Tongariro Crossing though, is the notable exception. Its a tough day, there is no denying it, but the rewards of the incredible views, the physical challenge and of course the fantastic fun make it for me, probably the most enjoyable day in New Zealand so far. I have no doubt though, that this beautiful place has many more equally enjoyable days in store!

So lucky, often cancelled in winter. Clear, crisp day. -10degrees at summit the day before, and we were warm enough to be able to sit and eat lunch for about 10/15 mins. Bum taboggan down the slope! weary but happy arrived back at the bus after 7 hours and 19.1km!