Fox Glacier

Leaving Ohau to recover in our wake, we hit the road, for the longest journey to date, less able than ever before for hours of monotonous driving. Some good team work, awe inspiring scenery through the Mount Aspiring National Park and some chocolate and crisps saw us through.

It was incredible how in a single day of driving, the scenery changed from brown grassy plains flanked by snow capped mountains, to dense mountainous forests, mirror still lakes and rugged cliff all topped off of course with the snow capped mountains. It was a pleasant and very welcome change. Arriving into an eerily quiet Haast, our scheduled stop for the evening, we discovered the small township was in shutdown mode. Some hasty roadside consultations with other campers ensued and shortly, we were unfortunately on the road again for the Fox Glacier.

Arriving late in the evening and exhausted, we parked up for the night and recovered. The following morning (or was it afternoon) we awoke to sunshine beaming outside – most welcome on our designated day of rest! Our one task for the day was accomplished early on in arranging our glacier trek for the next day.

Early on Tuesday, very, very early on Tuesday, I heard it! Gone was the blistering (well for a NZ winter) sunshine of the day before, I could hear the downpour outside. No matter, there was no turning back. We were going on a full day glacier walk.

After booting and suiting (literally – in heavy duty (I thought) leather boots and oilskins), we loaded onto the bus bound for the glacier. As we began, the rain which had earlier obligingly eased off, had a change of heart. Our walk to the terminal face of the glacier (where the end of the ice is) took us through the rainforest which flanks either side of it, up 800 steps and across a narrow path on a cliff face. Its not the day for someone without a head for heights. Eventually we reached the glacier itself. The walk actually begins a reasonable distance up the glacier as the terminal face is very unstable. The glacier once infamous for being one of the only advancing glaciers in the world, has now been retreating for 6 months or so. As a result, the terminal face is even more unstable, with ice regularly collapsing at the front, causing rock falls and surges in the river. Although we couldn’t get close enough to witness this happening, on a few occasions we could hear it from higher up the glacier.

The walk began on some pre cut pathways, little icy stairs. They are a little easier to navigate thanks to the crampons provided (little spikes that strap onto your boots). Our guide then brought us off these paths to allow us to explore other areas of the lower glacier, seeing crevasses, ice arches and even caves of ice, hollowed out by pools of water.

All day though, the deluge continued and after a 10 minute rain soaked stop for lunch, we all agreed to motor on. With wet feet (water squelching between my toes wet), a wet head, leaking oilskins and sodden gloves, it took a lot to keep my attention. Then again, I was walking around on a glacier – its kind of an attention grabber!

Amazingly, when I had the opportunity to take hold of the ice axe and do some geological work, I even managed to discover an incredibly valuable treasure – the remnants of a glacier mint mine!

(Seriously, I can’t help myself with the confectionary related cheesy photos)

Naturally enough, the sun made an appearance as we began to make our way back down the glacier and although brief, it was very, very welcome. Weary but satisfied, we made our way back to the bus and to the office to wring out our soaking clothes, wrap up in some warm dry clothes and head off. Not before we were awarded our certificates though – I’d like to thank …..