Confusing times

So the India leg of the Journey has come to an end. We left Delhi last night and headed for Sri Lanka. India has finally answered some questions for us though. Yes, there are some nice people here who are just trying to be nice and not scam you (you just have to look really hard for them). The three wheeled auto-rickshaws are an appropriate icon of India leading me to suspect that most are more like Del-Boy than they care to admit.

So in a country of over 1 Billion people, you'd expect there to be some over employment in certain industries. Just like asking Mariah Carey to use one note where 5 will do, so too the shops of India have a similar predicament. One to pack, one to weigh and one to accept money. The airport is no different, where the floor polishing machine driver is quickly followed by a man with a mop who is tailed by a sweeper.

India throws up a few puzzlers too. In a country where homosexuality is frowned upon, grown men walk around hand in hand. It is said to be a sign of brotherly affection but to be honest, the tight tops and the perfectly groomed hair have me rather suspicious. There is one final puzzler I noted whilst in Jaipur. Why does this roof rack which belongs to a small Suzuki car have tayto wrappers all around and and where did the owner get hold of them. I was dreaming about a packet of tayto for days after seeing this.

Becoming Friends ...

We've been in India for a fortnight now, and while I don't think I can quite class myself as a seasoned Indian traveller, I have certainly gotten to grips with the place a little bit more. After the dramatic journey into India and subsequent assault on the senses, things are reaching their own crazy equilibrium, including (after a few uncomfortable days!) my belly.

When we left Agra, I had been pretty bowled over by the Taj Mahal. Schmo was a little underwhelmed by the whole experience, but I have to confess, as the camera snapping tourist I am, I loved it. It was every bit as beautiful and immense as I expected, and even the photos didn't turn out too bad! The one downside to the Taj is when you go inside. Hundreds of people, tourists and locals, in the heat, makes for some pretty stinky feet and of course you walk through barefoot.

Jaipur for me, unfortunately, is only ever going to be synonymous with puking. I puked my way through our four nights there, stopping occasionally to visit the City Palace, Jantar Mantar (an impressive 300 year old astrological/astronomical display) and to stroll around the city! There are some magnificent sites, however the city itself is congested, polluted and insanely busy. The Pink City where all the local markets are unfortunately only received a flying visit from us. Thanks to my belly, Schmo also got Jaipur - the version in italics.

Jodphur has been much more of a success for us. we visited the hugely impressive Meherangarh Fort, which stands high above the blue city - the houses were historically painted indigo, a colour which denotes the higher Bhramin caste. However, nowadays anyone can paint their house blue, and it really makes for impressive viewing - very National Geographic.

The highlight however was without a shadow of a doubt, our cookery lesson with Rekha in Spice Paradise, just beyond the gate of the Sardar Market. For four hours, our extraordinary hostess taught us how to prepare traditional rajasthani dishes in her home kitchen. She talked to us with such warmth and enthusiasm about her home, her family and her ambitions for her fledgling business. We left, full bellied, really feeling like we had not only been welcomed into a real Indian home, but made a true friend. Anyone who spends more than a day in Jodphur should visit her. I guarantee you will leave fuller but more importantly happier!

Tomorrow is our final day in Jodphur before we leave to brave the big city of Dehli. From there, we will depart India and head to Sri Lanka for some R&R followed by some exploring of the country. Next post from there ....

The Wrong Footing

So, India and I didn't really get off to the best start. To be fair, with a day behind me, it wasn't entirely India's fault. Our day started relatively normally. We got up early and headed for the tourist bus station in Pokhara for the 6hr(?) bus journey to Sonauli, at the border with India. A fairly run of the mill journey for the most part. Unfortunately, about an hour away from our destination, outside a town, whose name for the life of me I cannot remember, we encountered a fairly huge traffic jam. It took quite a while for us to get to the bottom of the cause and it appears that the story was essentially this. A man (who?) was killed the previous evening, either on or by a bus, and no one knew who did it, so as a result there were mass protests and unease. The bus driver told us we would have to wait an hour, then till 6, then till 8. We had to get to the border and on to Gorakhpur to get our train, so being the panicky person I am, I insisted we would be better to walk and find some other mode of transport to the border. After a walk into town, said mode mode of transport transpired to be a cycle rickshaw -for a 20km journey. He was young, fit and healthy, and eager to take the fare, but that didn't stop us feeling guilty and embarassed, two westerners and their huge bags being pedal pushed a huge distance. But, options were thin on the ground, the roadblock was getting stricter, only pedestrians, bikes and cycle rickshaws getting through and in some cases even the latter were refused!

After a painful 2 hours, we eventually arrived. The road block lifted about half an hour before we arrived and we spent the remainder of the journey dodging angry juggernauts! The air was filthy, you could see the black soot in the air .... we were manky! Shortly before Sonauli, the driver switched with another young fella and paid him to take us the last 15mins or so, although that didn't stop him trying to cod us out of a few quid when we got there.

The border was manic. People everywhere, noise, bright lights (it was dark at this stage). We had no idea where to go and eventually resorted to asking the Nepali police, who are relatively tolerant of tourists!!! The told us where to go, so we pushed through to the immigration counter in India, whereupon we were promptly sent (by a gruff Indian immigration official) back to the Nepal immigration counter for our Exit stamps. Eventually, with everything in order, we sought out a bus to Gorakhpur. For 5Rs, which miraculously grew to 55Rs as soon as we took our seats. Tired, faces black as coalminers, we just paid up and sat. Maybe the extra 5o was for the stunning Bollywood movie we were shown - the enduring power of love, the fickle sons who abandoned their parents in hard times only to return to share the spoils, when their father found new wealth! When Harry Met Sally meets The Little Red Hen!

The journey was fine and we arrived in a Gorakhpur which more than surpassed our expectations. We had been warned by several travellers that it was a dump! It was hideous. The hotel left a lot to be desired, collections of fungus that would fascinate some scientist, a foul stench that never really abated, bed sheets and blankets which we'll be lucky if we don't get scabies from!!! (thank god for sleeping bag liners!). On the plus side, I was lulled to sleep by "Gone in 60 seconds", yes, the room had a TV!!!

I've never jumped out of my bed so quickly at 5am! Our train was leaving from the station across the road and we had wisely opted for 2nd Class AC - fancy! The 250km journey cost about 7.50 euro each. It was pretty comfy and in retrospect, a redeeming factor for India.

Varanasi itself is interesting. Cycle rickshaws from the station are notorious. Our driver took us to where we wanted to go, then followed us for a further hour and a half (sitting outside the restaurant we had lunch in (first meal in over 24 hours!). They get paid a commission by hotels if they bring guests. Given my tired state and the intimidating nature of India when you first arrive, I didn't last long. Eventually, I snapped - a shout of no! and slashing my arms through the air and he went scurrying! I've since learned that the following techniques are effective:
1) The Ignoro - most eventually leave you alone
2) The Ignoro - No Englisho - for when 1 fails, eventually say "No english" (we actually got commended on this one, when a boatman on the ghats told us "Nice technique!"
3) In times of crisis - a brisk and sharp "Go away"

India does not bring out my best side.

Perhaps this is why I've yet to warm to it. That said, I'm not giving it the same frosty reception I did yesterday, so perhaps with time, I'll come to appreciate it. It is a place I was so excited to see and I'm disappointed that thus far I feel so much like a fish out of water - but we've Agra, Jaipur, Jodphur and Dehli to go, so who knows?

Trekking in Annapurna

A few days have passed since our exertions in the Annapurna region, and having gotten over a nasty gastro bug, I'm finally feeling in the mood to update you all!

Our trek took us 16 days, across over 200km and up to 5,416m - to those of you who only ever plan to be at that height in an aeroplane, its pretty tough; cold, with about 50% of the oxygen at sea level. Having said that, the trek was amazing. It took us from Besisahar, just outside the Annapurna Conservation Area through Ngadi, Bhulebhule, Danaqyu, Lower Pisang, Manang, Yak Khkarka, over the Thorung La Pass (aforementioned 5416m) and the down into Muktinath, Marpha, Ghasa, Tatopani and finally to Beni. That's for those of you who want to look at an atlas or map!!!

With 16days of walking and observing, there's just way too much to even begin to tell you all of it, so Schmo and I sat down and selected a few highlights and of course a few low lights!!! Hopefully it will give you a flavour of the last 2 weeks!!!

Lowlights!

Blisters - After one day - with heels ripped to shreds we realised we had probably not broken the boots in quite as well as we had thought. In retrospect, strolling around Cabra wasn't going to have quite the same effect as trekking for 10-20km per day in the Himalaya!

Day 2 - After a blissful (less of course the above) first day, the second was a real shock to the system! After a fairly easy walk, we discovered that the last 5-7km of the trail had been obliterated by a landslide, so we spent about 2 hours scrambling over rocks, hands and feet, with our 12kg packs on our backs. Not what I had anticipated and I really wondered had we bitten off more than we could chew.

Giardia - Common trekking bug - Nastiness!

Either side of the Thorung La Pass - I was broken on the way to the pass, cold, exhausted, thought we were lost, shattered. Schmo thought the descent afterwards would never end! A tough day all round!

Jomsom - a town we thought was going to be bustling, energetic and full of life. The reality was a windy, desolate looking town. I half expected some tumbleweed to roll through the centre! We had planned to stay there, took one look and gritted the teeth for the 2hr walk to the next town - Marpha!

Shared bathrooms when you're sick - sometimes they're just not close enough!

Hot Springs - After about 14 days walk, we were excited about the Hot Springs in Tatopani. Visions of sitting in a bubbling natural spring we shattered when instead we found a man made slate lined pool, with just a little too much skin in it!!! (In its defence, its cleaned more frequently in the busy season!)

Safe Water Stations - The Annapurna conservation project has safe water stations for trekkers at various towns along the way - what they don't tell you is that they rarely open at this time of year because the water is "frozen" or washing its hair, or something!


Highlights!

Daal Bhat - specifically the first (of many) in Ngadi - maybe because it was our first taste, maybe because we were hungry, but it remains unparalleled!

Uli - Our knight in shining armour - the german guy we met on the bus to Besisahar who we trekked with most of the way to Tatopani - our guide, yak cheese expert and all around great company!!!

Hot Bucket Shower - in Danaqyu, a few days without a shower and our lodge owner offered us hot bucket showers - never thought I'd say it, but what a winner!

Nestlé prayer wheels - Prayer wheels dot the landscape, in every little town there are at least a few. Imagine our surprise when we notice some of the ornately decorated wheels had been replaced with (equally spinable) Nestlé condensed milk tins!

Mule Trains - I'm not sure which list these boys belong to, but I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt. Yes, they smell, pee a lot, usually where you want to walk, the kick dust in your face, but on the basis that they afforded me countless breaks, while I stopped to let them past, they make the highlights.

Nepali people - on the trail, without exception you were greeted with a hearty "Namaste", be it by young local people, elderly farmers, porters laden down with massive loads or even local kids (the latter swiftly followed by "Sweet?, School Pen?" No one ever made us feel unwelcome or out of place, so a big thumbs up!

Lower Pisang - As the altitude rose to this point, it was getting colder at night. With Schmo, Uli and I the only guests in the lodge, we were invited into the kitchen to eat. We sat there for a few hours with the family, their extended family and dog. It felt like real Nepal.

Mars Bars - There had to be some chocolate in here?! Not being the greatest fan of Mars, I succumbed and bought one on the way to Manang, just to fill a gap till we got there! I have never had as tasty a piece of chocolate - this of course meant several mars bars for the remainder of the trip. It must be the altitude though, because once we sat on the bus back to Pokhara, it just didn't taste the same.

Rasta Man at high camp - the lodge owner in High Camp (4800m) with his massive dreads and crazy smile! He told us that the previous week, for $125US he had carried a Chinese girl up to the pass. It took me over 3 hours with just my bag the next day!

Crossing the Pass - Between myself and Schmo, we found either side of the pass hell. However, the few minutes up there and the satisfaction of reaching it, were just fantastic. We had achieved something I had doubted several days previously we would ever manage to do! Which brings me to ....

Curly Wurly - we had saved a christmas curly wurly to be eaten at the top of the pass and wow did it hit the spot! Photographic evidence to follow!

Marpha - A gorgeous little town on the side of the mountain, built up around a huge monastery (which looks like a 5 star hotel) and our aptly named little lodge "Paradise Hotel" with cosy rooms, plenty of hot tea, great dinner for weary legs, followed by the quintessential Nepali dessert - Apple Crumble and custard!

It was tough to pick some lowlights, but harder still to limit the highlights, neither photos nor words can do justice to the scenery. It was an incredible experience. We're all trekked out now, relaxing in Pokhara and looking forward to the next leg of the journey tomorrow when we depart for India!

We'll keep you posted!

Marbh le Tae

Tar-eis cuapla la a chaitheamh i Kathmandu agus Pokhara, mheasas nuair a duirt duine "Namaste" leat go rabhadar ag lorg rud eigin eile uait seachas hello a ra leat. Da bharr bhios amhrasach don chead cuapla la agus mid thuas sna sleibhte. Do bheannaigh beagnach gach duine duinn ach bhiodar direach a bheith beasach agus cairdiuil.



Agus sinn ag dul in airde, do bhi an aimsir ag eiri nios fuaire. Bhi na hoicheanta fe bhun an reo phointe an chuid is mo don am. Nuair a shroicheamar ait chun stopadh do bhiodh ocras mor orainn, go hairithe tar eis 15 - 20 km a thaistil leis na malai troime. Nior raibh rogha iontach ar na menus o thaobh di de. Do bhi cuapla rudai bunusacha ann coisiuil le Black coffee (Nescafe no mint tea etc. Toisc an bhfuacht agus an tuirse do bhi ga le deoch te. De ghnath is fuath lio nescafe agus nior theastaigh coffee o Fiona no on Gearmaineach a bhi linn. Da bharr roinneamar corcan tae beagnach gach oiche. Ar dtus ba ginger tea a bhi ann ach agus an aistir ag dul ar aghaidh roinneamar corcan tae ceart. Nil a fhios agam an mbeidh Barrys agam nuair a shroichimid an baile but you never know....



Taimid in Pokhara aris anois ag glacadh sos tar eis an siuloid go lear. Ta gach duine fos ag ra "Namaste" linn agus cinnte ta siad ag lorg gno, airgead &rl. Beimid anseo ar feadh cuapla la eile agus ansin ar aghaidh linn go dti an Ind.

(Nil fada ar bith toisc leisce agus an keyboard seo, taim cinnte go bhfuil go leor botuin ann chmoh maith so pardun...)