Trekking in Annapurna

A few days have passed since our exertions in the Annapurna region, and having gotten over a nasty gastro bug, I'm finally feeling in the mood to update you all!

Our trek took us 16 days, across over 200km and up to 5,416m - to those of you who only ever plan to be at that height in an aeroplane, its pretty tough; cold, with about 50% of the oxygen at sea level. Having said that, the trek was amazing. It took us from Besisahar, just outside the Annapurna Conservation Area through Ngadi, Bhulebhule, Danaqyu, Lower Pisang, Manang, Yak Khkarka, over the Thorung La Pass (aforementioned 5416m) and the down into Muktinath, Marpha, Ghasa, Tatopani and finally to Beni. That's for those of you who want to look at an atlas or map!!!

With 16days of walking and observing, there's just way too much to even begin to tell you all of it, so Schmo and I sat down and selected a few highlights and of course a few low lights!!! Hopefully it will give you a flavour of the last 2 weeks!!!

Lowlights!

Blisters - After one day - with heels ripped to shreds we realised we had probably not broken the boots in quite as well as we had thought. In retrospect, strolling around Cabra wasn't going to have quite the same effect as trekking for 10-20km per day in the Himalaya!

Day 2 - After a blissful (less of course the above) first day, the second was a real shock to the system! After a fairly easy walk, we discovered that the last 5-7km of the trail had been obliterated by a landslide, so we spent about 2 hours scrambling over rocks, hands and feet, with our 12kg packs on our backs. Not what I had anticipated and I really wondered had we bitten off more than we could chew.

Giardia - Common trekking bug - Nastiness!

Either side of the Thorung La Pass - I was broken on the way to the pass, cold, exhausted, thought we were lost, shattered. Schmo thought the descent afterwards would never end! A tough day all round!

Jomsom - a town we thought was going to be bustling, energetic and full of life. The reality was a windy, desolate looking town. I half expected some tumbleweed to roll through the centre! We had planned to stay there, took one look and gritted the teeth for the 2hr walk to the next town - Marpha!

Shared bathrooms when you're sick - sometimes they're just not close enough!

Hot Springs - After about 14 days walk, we were excited about the Hot Springs in Tatopani. Visions of sitting in a bubbling natural spring we shattered when instead we found a man made slate lined pool, with just a little too much skin in it!!! (In its defence, its cleaned more frequently in the busy season!)

Safe Water Stations - The Annapurna conservation project has safe water stations for trekkers at various towns along the way - what they don't tell you is that they rarely open at this time of year because the water is "frozen" or washing its hair, or something!


Highlights!

Daal Bhat - specifically the first (of many) in Ngadi - maybe because it was our first taste, maybe because we were hungry, but it remains unparalleled!

Uli - Our knight in shining armour - the german guy we met on the bus to Besisahar who we trekked with most of the way to Tatopani - our guide, yak cheese expert and all around great company!!!

Hot Bucket Shower - in Danaqyu, a few days without a shower and our lodge owner offered us hot bucket showers - never thought I'd say it, but what a winner!

Nestlé prayer wheels - Prayer wheels dot the landscape, in every little town there are at least a few. Imagine our surprise when we notice some of the ornately decorated wheels had been replaced with (equally spinable) Nestlé condensed milk tins!

Mule Trains - I'm not sure which list these boys belong to, but I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt. Yes, they smell, pee a lot, usually where you want to walk, the kick dust in your face, but on the basis that they afforded me countless breaks, while I stopped to let them past, they make the highlights.

Nepali people - on the trail, without exception you were greeted with a hearty "Namaste", be it by young local people, elderly farmers, porters laden down with massive loads or even local kids (the latter swiftly followed by "Sweet?, School Pen?" No one ever made us feel unwelcome or out of place, so a big thumbs up!

Lower Pisang - As the altitude rose to this point, it was getting colder at night. With Schmo, Uli and I the only guests in the lodge, we were invited into the kitchen to eat. We sat there for a few hours with the family, their extended family and dog. It felt like real Nepal.

Mars Bars - There had to be some chocolate in here?! Not being the greatest fan of Mars, I succumbed and bought one on the way to Manang, just to fill a gap till we got there! I have never had as tasty a piece of chocolate - this of course meant several mars bars for the remainder of the trip. It must be the altitude though, because once we sat on the bus back to Pokhara, it just didn't taste the same.

Rasta Man at high camp - the lodge owner in High Camp (4800m) with his massive dreads and crazy smile! He told us that the previous week, for $125US he had carried a Chinese girl up to the pass. It took me over 3 hours with just my bag the next day!

Crossing the Pass - Between myself and Schmo, we found either side of the pass hell. However, the few minutes up there and the satisfaction of reaching it, were just fantastic. We had achieved something I had doubted several days previously we would ever manage to do! Which brings me to ....

Curly Wurly - we had saved a christmas curly wurly to be eaten at the top of the pass and wow did it hit the spot! Photographic evidence to follow!

Marpha - A gorgeous little town on the side of the mountain, built up around a huge monastery (which looks like a 5 star hotel) and our aptly named little lodge "Paradise Hotel" with cosy rooms, plenty of hot tea, great dinner for weary legs, followed by the quintessential Nepali dessert - Apple Crumble and custard!

It was tough to pick some lowlights, but harder still to limit the highlights, neither photos nor words can do justice to the scenery. It was an incredible experience. We're all trekked out now, relaxing in Pokhara and looking forward to the next leg of the journey tomorrow when we depart for India!

We'll keep you posted!