Becoming Friends ...

We've been in India for a fortnight now, and while I don't think I can quite class myself as a seasoned Indian traveller, I have certainly gotten to grips with the place a little bit more. After the dramatic journey into India and subsequent assault on the senses, things are reaching their own crazy equilibrium, including (after a few uncomfortable days!) my belly.

When we left Agra, I had been pretty bowled over by the Taj Mahal. Schmo was a little underwhelmed by the whole experience, but I have to confess, as the camera snapping tourist I am, I loved it. It was every bit as beautiful and immense as I expected, and even the photos didn't turn out too bad! The one downside to the Taj is when you go inside. Hundreds of people, tourists and locals, in the heat, makes for some pretty stinky feet and of course you walk through barefoot.

Jaipur for me, unfortunately, is only ever going to be synonymous with puking. I puked my way through our four nights there, stopping occasionally to visit the City Palace, Jantar Mantar (an impressive 300 year old astrological/astronomical display) and to stroll around the city! There are some magnificent sites, however the city itself is congested, polluted and insanely busy. The Pink City where all the local markets are unfortunately only received a flying visit from us. Thanks to my belly, Schmo also got Jaipur - the version in italics.

Jodphur has been much more of a success for us. we visited the hugely impressive Meherangarh Fort, which stands high above the blue city - the houses were historically painted indigo, a colour which denotes the higher Bhramin caste. However, nowadays anyone can paint their house blue, and it really makes for impressive viewing - very National Geographic.

The highlight however was without a shadow of a doubt, our cookery lesson with Rekha in Spice Paradise, just beyond the gate of the Sardar Market. For four hours, our extraordinary hostess taught us how to prepare traditional rajasthani dishes in her home kitchen. She talked to us with such warmth and enthusiasm about her home, her family and her ambitions for her fledgling business. We left, full bellied, really feeling like we had not only been welcomed into a real Indian home, but made a true friend. Anyone who spends more than a day in Jodphur should visit her. I guarantee you will leave fuller but more importantly happier!

Tomorrow is our final day in Jodphur before we leave to brave the big city of Dehli. From there, we will depart India and head to Sri Lanka for some R&R followed by some exploring of the country. Next post from there ....